"The Mac Dhubhaich"
The newsletter is published quarterly and sent to all members of the Clan. It
is a wealth of information! There are historical articles of general
interest about Scotland, her people and the Clan, as well as current news.
Each of the ten regional conveners reports on activities in their area. There
are genealogical queries and tidbits, flowers of the forest, interesting
websites and books, Scottish jokes, MacDuff items for sale, listings of new
members, and all sorts of other interesting things. This page will
offer selected samples from the newsletter.
Here are some excerpts from past Newsletters...
Regional Reports
Mountain States RegionGary BallardThe 33rd Longs Peak Scottish/Irish Highland Festival was held September 11-13, 2009 at Estes Park, Colo- rado. This year as usual the festival attracted approxi- mately 100,000 people from all over. Estes Park is on the east side of the Rocky Mountain at an elevation of about 7,500 feet. This city goes all out for the festival with all kinds of events taking place. There are several seminars, buffets, concerts, tattoos and ceilidh. There are dance contest, pipe bands, solo bag pipes, drumming, dogs, international men professional athletics championships and international jousting cham- pionships. There were also 2 mountain tents full of mer- chants, a street of food venders and 2 mountain tents full of clans. Believe there were about 80 clans represented this year which is lower than normal but pretty good con- sidering the state of the economy now. As many of you know, when you are in the mountains in September anything can happen. We had a week of nice weather with the sun shining and temperatures about 70. Then we get up Saturday morning and find snow on the mountain and temperatures in the 30s. That is where it stayed all day. Needless to say, we about froze all day. However that did not stop people coming by our clan space. We talked to people all day and had about 20 sign the guest register just on Saturday. Sunday it was back in the 70s and stayed that way for a week and then it snowed again. Seems like every year there is always at least one day of cold weather during the festival. We had a wonderful time site seeing, hiking, picnicking in the mountain meadows, grilling and most of all just enjoy- ing life as it was meant to be. Such tough duty but I will do my part and return again next year.
Clan MacDuff "Deep South Regional" - March, 2009Bob & Maria SpenceHello MacDuffs- Thanks to Edie Duff-Loesch, the MacDuffs were represented at the Sarasota Games and the Central Florida Games in Winter Park. Several memberships were received, and Edie said lots of interest was shared with applications going home with them. Our schedule conflicts caused us to miss the Ft. Lauderdale and Jacksonville Games this year-we need helpers! Anyone who would like to "man a tent" for us, please let us know. A report from Georgia has our new convener Marion Pearson, doing a great job as well -thanks Rick for helping Edie in FL! We satisfied a long-time dream by visiting New Zealand and Australia in January. We loved the orchards of apples, citrus, and peach trees growing next to each other in NZ. (Think about it, we'd have to go north and south to have that in the states.) We saw kiwi growing - on vines like grapes. They have beautiful botanical gardens in every town - we took hundreds of pictures. NZ is very Scottish. We visited a winery, where the owner told us that their largest seller, Chardonnay, is relatively new to NZ; in fact the roots of the Chardonnay vines were brought into NZ from France illegally - by the SPENCE brothers! You just never know when a 'claim to fame' comes along, eh? Australia was interesting -- we saw koalas, kangaroos, wombats, emus, platypus, etc. in the area north of Melbourne where the recent brush fires were a week later! It was 108 degrees when we were there. We loved the harbor in Sydney, and toured the famous opera house - where we climbed 400 steps. They have no access for handicapped people, but are working on it. It was a trip of a life time! We are very excited about our next AGM being in Edinburgh, Scotland! See our article about the tour group and check the blog for up-dates. It won't be long now- Hugs from us in the Deep South and do drop into the Clan tents when visiting the Games in the Deep South. Yours aye, Bob & Maria Spence
Regional Reports
Lakes States Region, Fall, 2008Richard CooperIt is with mixed feelings that I say goodbye as being the Lakes States Regional Convener for the past 3 years...but a new chapter has begun in my life as your new Vice Convener. Barbara, my wife, will continue as the Indiana State Convener, but now we have an important vacancy to fill...that of the Lakes States Regional Convener. I've met many of you at the Scottish Games and Events held in Michigan, Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, but have not yet been to Wisconsin or Minnesota. Besides Indiana, each of those States needs Conveners as well. Please remember that Clan MacDuff will only be as affective in promoting our goals and objectives as you are actively involved. Hosting a tent at games and events is one way to start that involvement, and it may eventually lead to being selected as Convener for that State or even Regional Convener. Barbara, her mother, Vera, and I attended Scottish Festivals in Alma, Michigan, and Ft Wayne, Indiana, earlier this year. At the Alma Highland Festival and Games, May 24th - 25th, hundreds of visitors stopped by our tent over the 2-day period. How wonderful it was to see Bruce Duff and his niece Tara again. They and Jubilee Bonavia marched proudly with us in the Parade of Clans. On June 14th, we set up our Clan MacDuff tent for the first time at the Indiana Highland Games, Ft Wayne, Indiana. Thankfully that Saturday stayed relatively dry after a torrential downpour earlier. We were blessed by a visit from my son, David, and my grand daughter, Braelyn. We also traveled to Flagstaff, Arizona, for the AGM in July, and thoroughly enjoyed our 3 week trip. We are hosting a tent at the Columbus Scottish Festival, September 13th & 14th, and we will continue to represent Clan MacDuff at various events until my successor has been named.
Hosting a tent is exciting, and we will
gladly help you get started, just contact me at
rcooper62@verizon.net.
The weather was fine for both days, Saturday and Sunday, for the Stone Mountain Highland Games. The Friday evening
drop off of the tent materials was excellent and really saves time. We were in our usual location surrounded by good
Clan friends such as Guthrie, Gunn and SAMS (Scottis-American Military Society). Many thanks to my camp commander,
Lou Coroso, and wife Marsha, for a grand time.
Marion Pearson joined us at the Games. I believe I signed her aboard in 2003. It was certainly nice to see her again.
We spoke at the Sponsors' Reception. I hope that she will help with the tent next year. Bob and Maria Spence were up from
Florida. Donnie and Gale Shearer were down from Carolina as was Chris Tullis. We accepted two new members. (I had so much
help with the tent guests I may have missed a name.) Please join me in welcoming: D. Cherie Long and family, husband Dr. Duane
Truex, sons Sean-Ryan Long and Colin Patrick Eon Truex. (Now there are some fine Celtic names for you!). Also, welcome Brian Beveridge.
We have a re-up from Erik and Lisa Millslagle, members from 2003.
The games were again a blur. My friends Jan Warf and Larry Henderson were up from Florida. We all had a great time.
There was a wedding in the Henderson Clan, the daughter of my friends Tony and Gwen Martin. Congratulations and best wishes
to them! And, a huge thank you to all of the out-of-state MacDuffs for all their help at the games!!!
Thoughts from the shaky side!
2007 was a positive year for Clan MacDuff in the Pacific Southwest Region.
We have traveled from San Diego in the south, to Fresno in the San Joaquin Valley north, to the Seaside Games on
the beautiful Gold Coast city of Ventura. While we received ten new members into our fold, I am looking forward
to increasing that number in 2008. (Walt then sent in many pictures to be included in the newsletter along with captions.)
This year has been a trying one. We had a nice games at Gatlinburg, then Gale and I left for a month in Scotland.
The games in Kentucky went well. I have not received any information on the games at Grandfather Mountain or games in North Carolina at this time.
The games for Middle Tennessee were a one day event this year and at a different location.
They were small, but it was a fun day in spite of the record high heat and high humidity. Twelve family members of Walter William Spence, Jr.,
who died July 8, 2007, joined us to march in the Parade of Clans so we had a grand representation even though it was a somber mood
honoring the loss of one of our members. The games was in honor of him and his work with past games.
Our own wee lass, Haley Davis, the daughter of one of our members, came to the tent sporting 6 ribbons and one trophy for her Highland dancing -
one for being the best amateur dancer. She again made a grand showing for Clan MacDuff.
Gale and I will be attending the games at Stone Mountain on October 20th to help out and make a grand showing at one of the best games in the USA.
We will be joined by our friends Richard and Pat Malt from North Yorkshire, England. Richard is a retired Regimental Sergeant Major of the Royal Signals.
We collected enough money to have two stones for the MacDuff Clan of America to be placed in the walkway for all to see as
they walk up to the new Culloden Visitors Center. The whole park will be resurveyed and the lines of both armies will be placed at the original locations,
excavated, and any artifacts found will be displayed in the museum. Our Clan will be represented there for eternity, so be proud, MacDuff!
We again have been the first to place our mark into history.
We just returned from attending the Annual Meeting of the MacDuff Clan in Columbus, IN. What a great time we had! We loved seeing our
once-a-year friends in the Clan and catching up on news - but that's not all. We stayed at an unusual and beautiful Holiday Inn and toured
Columbus' architectural and sculptural wonders. (Little did we know that Columbus, Indiana, is the sixth best city in the United States for
architectural beauty.) We spent two days in Richard and Barbara Cooper's tent at the Games, led the parade of tartans proudly as the Honored Clan,
ate wonderful food, and laughed at Jane Robitaille's trivia contest at the Clan dinner. The Coopers are to be commended - they are superb hosts.
It was wonderful to see friends from the MacDuff tours; Larry and Chris MacDuff, sister Anne and nephew Mike from the last tour, and
meet two more of their sisters. Jane, Carl and Billy Robitaille were there too, as well as all our friends as Regional Conveners from across America.
Our National Convener Stephen Lundie (with wife Ellen) ran excellent Clan Council and AGM meetings. The Council met for over four hours to
help with Clan items. It was great to see people from the west coast, middle states (TX) clear to the east. What strength you have in your Clan officers!
We are excited about the prospect of a tour in Scotland in 2009 in conjunction with the "Homecoming Scotland" or "The Gathering." If
you'd consider going, save July 2009 and watch for more information to be forthcoming. This is expected to be the world's largest gathering
of the clans and we've been invited, sponsored by the Standing Council of Scottish Chiefs (SCSC). Let's be there!
The heat in Florida is still with us, but our Games schedule will begin next month with Rick Abercrombie, the Georgia State Convener, at
Stone Mountain, Georgia, outside Atlanta, on October 19-21, 2007. Then we'll have a clan tent at least four Florida events: - South Florida
in the Ft. Lauderdale area on January 12, 2008; Central Florida near Orlando on January 19-20, 2008; the North East Games in Green
Cove Springs in the Jacksonville area on February 23, 2008; and Sarasota on March 29. Other games are: Tallahassee starting again on
April 19, Dunedin on April 12, Zephyrhills on March 1-2, and Panama City on March 8. So, there are lots of places to visit to renew your
Scottish heritage. Do come and visit! If you are reading this and can help in the clan tent at a Florida games,
please email us at flspence@earthlink.net
Slainte! The Lakes States Region website, www.clanmacdufflakesstatesregion.org, has been going well and
updated as needed. It includes a current list of events in the Lakes States Region for 2007. Barbara, my wife and Indiana
State Convener, set up our Clan MacDuff tent at the Springfield, Illinois, Highland Games & Celtic Festival on May 19th
and had favorable comments and many visitors to Clan Row. Six visitors requested more information about Clan MacDuff
when they noticed that their surnames appeared on the Sept list. Barbara and I will be setting up at the Ohio Scottish
Games on June 23 at the Lorain County Fairgrounds in Wellington, Ohio. We hope to see many Lakes States Region
members there. Please stop by and introduce yourselves to us.
The Clan MacDuff AGM this year is being held at the Columbus Indiana Scottish Festival in September. The dates of
the festival are September 8 & 9, and Clan MacDuff is the Honored Clan. Some members will be arriving as early as
Thursday, September 6th, and some staying as late as Monday, September 10th. A reminder that a block of rooms has
been reserved at the Holiday Inn Conference Center, 2480 Jonathan Moore Pike, Columbus, Indiana. There will be a
Hospitality Room at the Holiday Inn on the evenings of the 6th and 7th. The AGM will be Saturday afternoon, and a
Clan Banquet will be Saturday evening. Hope to see you all there!
Greetings from the Sunny Side!
Wow! What a great weekend! Clan MacDuff participated in celebrating the 75th Annual Highland Gathering
and festival held at the Los Angeles County Fairgrounds. Along with over 60 clans and associated Scottish groups,
16 pipe bands and several major Scottish/Celtic bands, a special recognition was given to all of our military personnel,
past and present. Clan MacDuff had the opportunity to chat with many visitors to our table and new members.
On March 10th and 11th Clan MacDuff attended the Los Angeles County Irish Fair and Music Festival. We were the
only clan there! The good news is that we added a new member!
Our tent then found itself set up in Stamler Park for the 12th Annual Bakersfield Scottish Gathering and Games.
These games are a very popular event for the southern San Joaquin Valley. Again we welcomed new members!
Remember, only those who are left-handed are in their right minds!
My wife and I very much enjoyed attending our first Scottish gathering representing Clan MacDuff at the
Louisiana Swamp-Celts Festival in Gonzales, LA. Unfortunately the turnout was low but a slow start was ok to
get our feet wet. There was a representative from 16 clans and the Clan of Honor this year was Clan Fergusson.
The festival was held at a local expo center inside a rodeo ring. The clan tables were set up around the ring
with the games and pipes being held on separate sides of the ring. There were lots of vendors, good food and
much drink to be had - after all, this is Louisana! We only met one other couple that were MacDuffs but very
much enjoyed the camaraderie of all that attended.
Here in the upper South we will attend the usual games, Glasgow Kentucky, Grandfather Mountain in North Carolina if
it is approved and here in Tennessee the
Gatlinburg Games. The Nashville Games have lost their location for some reason and they are looking for a new site.
I have not heard form them yet, so the Nashville Games are still a maybe in my books. If they do have the Games we will be there.
I, personally, will not be able to attend and help with the games from May 21 to June 20 as we will be in Scotland.
The last games I will attend will be the Gatlinburg Games the day before we leave. We will be at the AGM in Indiana and
assist all we can. Hopefully we'll have the tartan material by then, so we can order the kilts and other items before the AGM.
Hello again!
In memory of my beloved wife, Alice Duff Smith, written by Alex Duff Smith in Lowland Scots vernacular.
GREETINGS FROM SCOTLAND - Spring 2003
Just a note to let you know that, at long last, we have settled in our new house on the beautiful Island of Bute.
Bute is located on the Firth of Clyde (near the Isle of Arran where we visited on one of the clan tours).
We have wanted to retire to the Island of Bute (known locally as Rothesay) for many years, so we decided to make
the move as our house and garden at Drumrossie was becoming too difficult for us to maintain. Also, last winter,
we couldn't get down to the village for several days because of deep snow, so we didn't want to go through that again.
On Bute it seldom snows due to the Gulf Stream, and the weather is much kinder. There is a regular ferry service to the "mainland"
which makes trips to Glasgow easy to visit relatives and friends. The scenery is spectacular and there are lots of foorpaths around the Island.
We are both very happy here and consider ourselves fortunate to have been able to retire to this beautiful place.
(Alice and Alec are long time members of Clan MacDuff)
First Lady Laura Welch Bush had chosen the theme and then contacted Governor George Pataki to have a New York artist
create a bird that is indigenous to New York. It will be used as an ornament for their tree. The ornament will be part of the White
House permanent collection and curated by the Smithsonian Institutuin. As an incentive, the artist, with a guest, would receive an
invitation to the White House for a noon reception on Wednesday, December 2, 2002.
The Catskill Mountain Crafts Collective was contacted, where upon Ruth Newman and Myrna Greenhall approached Art
Society of Kingston artist Richard Connell of New Kingston and asked him if he would accept the commission.
Mr. Connell, who is recognized as a sculptor and decoy carver, has created over 50 pieces for James Earl Jones and done presentation
pieces as awards for the Catskill Watershed Corp., U.S. Department of Interior, National Park Service, Point Reyes National Seashore,
The American Museum of Natural History and SPAWN, Salmon Protection Awareness Watershed Network, to name a few.
After due consideration and deliberation, he chose to accept and carve an authentic museum quality 19th century style decoy of a Ruddy
Turnstone, even though the official New York State bird is the "Blue Bird" (of happiness?). As a "whittler" (as he prefers to call himself)
for over 50 years and a consummate "Flatlander" who has studied shorebirds for all of those years, the choice of species is both significant and timely.
In his opinion, "The Ruddy Turnstone is the infantryman of shorebirds. It invades the beaches in great numbers and burrows little
foxhole-like depressions, scours the tide wrack and leaves no stone unturned in its mission to survive." He added, "It may be a token
gesture on my part but as an infantryman myself, I felt there should be something as a reminder on our President's White House Christmas
tree for the women and men in our Armed Forces that have been sent all over the globe and will not be able to be home for their own Holiday.
Some may never come home, but this way a part of them will still be in America and will always be in our Nation's Capital, Washington, D.C., in the Smithsonian."
As for the reception; on that day and at that time you will find him having lunch in The Flour Patch in Margaretville. As he says,
"In the presence of the ordinary local people that I enjoy." Pumpernickel bagel with a smear of olive cream cheese, open, not
toasted, and a Kari blueberry turnover with a cup of tea. Because this is a special day, maybe two cups of tea? He likes things simple,
but adds, "Perhaps I'll ask them for a candle on the table that day."
(Richard Connell, FSA Scot, is a Past Convener of Clan MacDuff)
Lay on MacDuff through thick and thin
Edinburgh, Scotland - With prayers, pipers and some political nuance, the legendary Stone of Scone was placed in its new home in
Scotland on Saturday, seven centuries after it was stolen by an English king.
"It's back where it belongs in Scotland," said Jean Livingstone, who stood with her granddaughter in the crowd along Edinburgh's
Royal Mile as the stone rolled past on an army Land Rover. Prince Andrew represented his mother, Queen Elizabeth II, at the
ceremonies on the feast day of St. Andrew, Scotland's patron saint.
The rough-hewn block of grey sandstone, weighing 458 pounds, was the coronation seat of Scottish kings until it was carried away
as war booty by King Edward I in 1296. The Stone of Scone (pronounced 'skoon') was placed under the coronation chair in Westminster
Abbey where it has been involved in all coronations since.
The stone will be placed on public view in Edinburgh Castle.
Legend says the stone originated in the Holy Land and that the Biblical patriarch, Jacob, rested his head on it when he had his
dream of a ladder reaching to heaven.
Historians have stated that due to the murder of Duncan, Tenth Earl of Fife, September 25, 1288, and the only successor to
him was his three year old son, Duncan, who became the Eleventh Earl of Fife, King Edward I of England absconded with the
Stone of Scone in 1296 during a short lived war. He commissioned Walter of Durham to make it into a coronation chair. King
Edward I took the chair, with the stone in its seat, to St. Edward's Chapel, Westminster Abbey, where it was kept for the 700-year period.
It was returned to Scotland in 1996.
In 1327, the English queen Isabella and her lover, Mortimor, deposed Edward II. Robert the Bruce moved at once,
defeated the English, and concluded a peace treaty at Holyrood in which the English recognized him as King of Scotland
and gave up all claims to the country. The English Parliment confirmed the treaty at Northampton in 1328. To insure the peace,
Bruce's son David married Joan, the English princess, the sister of King Edward III. The Stone of Scone was not mentioned in the
treaty, and the English did not return it at that time.
KIRKIN' O' THE TARTAN - Winter 2001
The ceremony known as the "Kirkin' O' the Tartan" dates back to 1943 during World War II. It was instituted by the Rev.
Peter Marshall, then Chaplain of the United States Senate. At that time there was concern that Americans were not rallying
their support for our country's British allies. In an attempt to instill ancestral pride among Scots living in America, Marshall instituted
the Kirking O' the Tartans, which was conducted in Presbyterian churches across the nation. The presence of the Presbyterian
church in America is due to the migration of Scots and Irish. The ceremony is significant in that it's a celebration of thanksgiving for our
Scottish heritage. A "kirk" is a Scottish work for "church." The Kirking O' the Tartans is a ceremonial blessing of the traditional garb of a
Highland Scot. The ceremony usually includes a procession of flag bearers or banner carriers, and may include bagpipes, drums, fiddles, dances and songs.
As the Scottish legend goes, after the failure of the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745 against the British, the wearing of the tartan - or keeping
of any Highland custom - was forbidden. The invading British hoped to subdue any sense of Scottish pride. Their leader, Prince Charles
Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charles), had escaped to France leaving the Highlanders vulnerable to the troops loyal to the Duke of
Cumberland and the House of Hanover. These troops scoured the Scottish Highlands, rooting out the Jacobite supporters.
Although the wearing of tartan was prohibited, the Highlander would take a small piece of his clan's tartan and hide it beneath his clothes
on his way to the village kirk. Then at a designated moment during the service, worshipers would secretly touch their tartan. At that moment,
the minister pronounced a blessing on all tartans and each Scot pledged his loyalty and respect for his country's heritage and traditions.
In this way, the Kirking O' the Tartan continued but in secret defiance. The ban against tartans was lifted after 35 years, and in 1782 the
King of England encouraged the wearing of the tartan as a way of lessening tensions between Scotland and England. Today this is still a
reminder of the founding fathers, their denominations, and another way of worship.
The clan tour, May 20 to June 1, was an absolute delight for us. Having 32
people from the U.S., Canada, England and Scotland be so congenial, having a
delightful tour guide, a fun and likable coach driver, plus interesting
history with gorgeous landscapes and views - all in one package! WOW! Who
could ask for more? Elizabeth Oliver planned a fantastic tour for us. Even
those who had toured Scotland previously found new places and learned new
things. Warren Kininmonth was heard to say that he is in love with Scotland
and would like to live there!
The tour began in Edinburgh where we spent several days. We toured the city,
Edinburgh Castle, saw the Honors of Scotland, the Stone of Destiny, drove the
Royal Mile, saw the Parliment building under construction, Holyrood Palace,
Salisbury Crag and Craigmillar Castle. We even shopped on Princess Street.
We attended "A Taste of Scotland" at Prestonfield Stables where we had great
fun singing, dancing and tasting haggis! We crossed the Forth Road Bridge
and toured Culross, a royal burgh. In Dumfermline, we visited Abbot's house
and the Museum of Andrew Carnegie. We stayed in Lunden Links overlooking the
North Sea, visited the remains of the MacDuff Castle in East Wemyss, saw
Balgonie Castle where Peter MacDuff lived (Larry and Chris MacDuff and Anne
Hall's grandfather), and toured Falkland Palace in the famous Old Course.
That evening we had a gala sing and dance fest of our own with the help of an
accordionist. There was much hilarity about the dancing, but we discovered
we are really good singers!
We drove through Dundee, passed through a ski area with no trees, saw red
deer, pheasants and oyster-catchers. Drove along the River Dee and toured
Drum Castle, then flew from Aberdeen to the Shetland Islands. We bundled up
for a boat trip to see Mousa Broch. Rough water and wind didn't permit us to
land at the broch. We also saw seals and numerous birds (fulmars, arctic
terns and shags). The whales come in here, but we didn't spot any this day.
Wild primroses were blooming everywhere. We saw Shetland ponies, one-track
roads and a big fishing museum in Scalloway. We visited the Viking Museum in
Lerwick, learned about "UpHellya" festival and toured the Shetland Jewelry
Factory, Fair Isle Woolen Mill, and the oil refinery where many arctic terns
were nesting. Dinner was at Busta House where we heard the history of the
estate - including a "Spence" in the story - told in front of a huge
fireplace with a wonderful peat fire.
We "hiked" up to Sumburgh Point Nature Reserve - an unbelievable view! We
observed birds up close - thrilled to view puffins which strutted about for
us! Also seen were greater black back gulls, shag, fulmars, kittiwake,
guillemot and razorbills. Wild flowers here included pink thrift and yellow
trefoil. We toured Jarlshof, ancient village of 2000 BC, possibly Celts or
Picts, and also visited Quendale Mill land croft, a working farm, and some
rug-makers. Then, we flew back to Aberdeen.
We toured Dunnatter Castle - not to be missed - an absolutely spectacular
spot! Also toured St. Machar Cathedral where there is a stained window
dedicated to a "Kininmonth." Paul and Priscilla Schmitz renewed their vows
here - a very special event on Memorial Day and another chance for the clan
to wear their kilts. We lunched and celebrated at Kings College in Old
Aberdeen.
We drove north to Fraserburgh, toured the Fisherman's Lighthouse Museum and
the actual lighthouse built on the site of Fraser Castle, and climbed all the
way up to the catwalk. On to Duff House where we had a special reception,
presented our gift of 1000 pounds to the "Friends of Duff House," toured the
house and learned the history and connections to the MacDuff clan. This
finished with a local newspaper taking our picture which was printed the next
day, to our delight, with the headlines of "MacDuff Tour Hits Banff."
On to Dufftown where, the saying goes, "Rome was built on seven hills;
Dufftown was built on seven stills." We went to a whisky tasting, a
kilt-maker and toured a distillery. That evening, we attended an excellent
production of "The Admirable Crichton" in Pitlochry.
At Fort William we split into two groups: one taking the train across Rannoch
Moor, the other visiting Glencoe. We met in Tyndrum and drove to Aberfeldy
to see the Black Watch Memorial. We sang songs several times and all agreed
that the food had been magnificent the whole trip. We even had a chance to
view Aberfeldy/Blue Folds Cottages, owned and run by Steve and Elizabeth
Oliver. Did you know that in Scotland: choc-a-block is a traffic jam, lay-by
is a pull-over spot, gone walk-a-bout means missing, hole in the wall is an
ATM, zebra crossing is a cross walk? These were our favorite expressions.
We toured Scone Castle with its magnificent china display and orchids
everywhere. Peacocks guard the grounds. We were lucky with the weather; we
took sunshine wherever we went. All of Scotland was in bloom.
This ended the tour as we all headed for airports. This article does not
include all our "stops" - just the major ones. We'll never forget it - you
should go next time - PLAN ON IT - four years from now!
Famous quote from Elizabeth Kininmonth Oliver: "Scotland is not only history,
but is the landscape." We had thought this would probably be our last
MacDuff tour. Now, we are so excited about the next one! Thanks, Elizabeth!
Recently returning from an August vacation of hiking in the hills, glens and
around the lochs of Scotland, I would like to encourage any member of the
Clan MacDuff Society contemplating such a trip to "JUST DO IT!" Joining me
on this trip was Bill Bruce, a friend from my church.
The West Highland Way is Scotland's first and most popular long distance
footpath. It runs from Milngavie, on the northern outskirts of Glasgow, 95
miles to the capitol of the West Highlands, Fort William. The route passes
through some of Scotland's most beautiful landscapes: by loch and mountain,
over moorland and forest paths.
Bill and I traveled with fourteen other hikers from the U.S. We met in
Glasgow and traveled by coach to Luss, a charming town on Loch Lomond, once
voted Scotland's loveliest village. A boat ferry took us across the loch to a
pier and tavern for the start of a short 7-mile walk along the forested banks
of the eastern side, ending up at another ferry pier and tavern. After ales,
or a dram of the water of life, we boarded a return ferry for a wonderful
night in a great hotel on the loch.
Our trip did not include the entire 95 miles of the footpath, but rather 42
miles of select sections were traveled. This enabled us to pick the preferred
segments, away from the road noise and into the best scenery. So, our next
day began at the Bridge of Orchy and entered the Glencoe area, covering 13
miles of beautiful hiking. The following two days, through Kinlochleven and
continuing on to Fort William, covered 22 additional miles.
The day after we arrived in Fort William, we were fortunate to awake to a
beautiful clear day. Options included a West Highland Steam Railway train
ride to Mallaig on the coast, or a hike to the top of Ben Nevis, at 4,406
feet, Great Britain's highest peak. I took the 13-mile round trip hike to the
top under beautiful blue skies. Many have told me they have never seen the
top of Ben Nevis because of the frequent drizzle and fog, so we felt very
lucky. We gathered together that evening with drams and ales to share stories
and dinner.
Leaving Fort William by coach, we traveled to Edinburgh via Stirling with a
stop by Robert the Bruce's monument at Bannockburn battlefield, where the
Bruce finally defeated the English army of Edward II in 1314. Upon arriving
in Edinburgh, we checked into our hotel and changed into our kilts for the
evening festivities. Following dinner, we enjoyed a ceilidh at the Caledonian
Brewery prior to catching the Edinburgh Castle Military Tattoo at 10:30pm
that evening. This was the last performance of the 2000 event, and they had a
wonderful fireworks display at the end of the performance, around 12:15am.
The opportunity to spend quailty time in our land of heritage - hiking past
the heather in bloom, fighting midges, wearing the kilt (yes, every night
except one), hoisting ales and drams - resulted in a wonderful trip.
I first heard about the Cross of MacDuff from my great uncle Thaxter Spence,
a 33rd Degree Mason, Knight Templar, and Grand Governor of the State of
Connecticut. When I was a child, Thaxter told me the privilege of sanctuary
at the Cross of MacDuff in Fifeshire was granted to clan members of the ninth
degree after MacDuff slew MacBeth and restored Malcolm to the throne of
Scotland in 1056. MacDuffs of the ninth degree who committed homicide,
Thaxter said, were able to claim this extraordinary privilege until the
Reformation. According to various myths and legends, claiming sanctuary also
involved paying an amount of money to the King, or the victim's relatives.
Like his brother Thaxter, my grandfather, Garnet Day Spence, was proud of his
Scottish heritage, as was my father, as am I. Thus, in 1986 I visited the
Cross of MacDuff in Fifeshire, and MacDuff's Castle on a sea cliff
overlooking the Firth of Forth. I stood on the ancient Pictish stone and I
climbed to the top of the castle, to honor my ancestors.
According to other sources, there was a cross of Mugdrum (a corruption of the
name of Saint Magridin, in whose honor the cross was erected) about a mile
north of the stone. Nine rings were attached to the cross by iron staples,
and the murderous MacDuff seeking sanctuary was obligated to grasp one of
these rings. The Mugdrum Cross was destroyed by John Knox and the Reformers
in 1559.
It has been noted that the stone was never a cross in the traditional Celtic
sense. The cross is a mile north of the stone. Indeed, the cross and the
stone have always had strikingly different purposes. The ancient Pictish
stone probably was used in Druidic ceremonies involving human sacrifice.
Remember, the Gaelic name Dubh, from which Duff derives, is taken to mean a
man with a dark complexion - but it may well mean a man of darkness in a more
sinister sense. The Duffs - one of seven lines descended directly from
MacAlpine - controlled Fife from at least the ninth century. They were the
premier clan in Scotland at that savage time, and would have used the stone
for their own dark purposes.
For example, by one account, "the tumili surrounding the cross are said to
contain the bodies of those who could not prove their intentions to the
satisfaction of the Thanes of Fife." Another legend has it that Malcolm
asked MacDuff to build a sanctuary in Fife, to protect the local residents
from the Vikings. MacDuff built the sanctuary, called Gurth's Cross, which
stood in the Ochill Range between Fifeshire and Stratheame. Gurth's Cross
became known as MacGider's Cross, after the aforementioned saint.
The stone overlooks the Firth of Tay, but from the stone one cannot see the
River Tay, which flows into the Firth from the north. From the Cross of
MacDuff, one looks west and sees the River Eam. As any map will show,
Ninewells and Whinneybank are closer communities to the cross than Newburgh.
There is also the possibility that the stone actually served as the base for
a cross. The Royal Commission of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and
Constructions of Scotland determined that the eight "cup marks" on the top of
the stone may have been formed by erosion, or may have supported a cross.
There is no proof to verify this or any other legend, but when I photographed
the cross, I made sure to focus in on these cups, and they looked man-made to
me.
Writing in 1897, D.Butler said, "There is a cross, now very faint, on a stone
fixed in the lintel of Clunie's farm not far from MacDuff's cross. Tradition
asserts it was brought to the neighborhood during the building of the farm."
In 1876, A.Laing said, "When the field was first ploughed, a rude sort of
pavement discovered on the hillock, thirty paces south of the cross, was
thought to be the floor of a cell or oratory associated with the cross."
The castle is a splendid, if graffiti-ridden emblem of our heritage. After
MacBeth murdered MacDuff's family and destroyed MacDuff's castle at
Dunamarie, MacDuff built this castle on a sea-cliff overlooking the Firth of
Forth. It is spectacular to behold, but disintegrating rapidly. Want to try
to save it?
I found it somewhat comical yet intensely endearing that my ancestors chose
to lug coffins and digging tools up hills so that the deceased would be
closer to heaven.....
I began looking into burial traditions of post- and pre-Christian Scotland to
see if there were any connections. I found no documentation of burial grounds
located specifically at the top of hills, but I did find a fierce loyalty and
connection to the physical land, the exact spot where an individual had lived
and died. .... Throughout our history there has been an ardent connection to
the land. I wondered why?
The closest answer I could come to is one dating from pre-Christian Scotland.
The Scots have always been highly connected to the fairy world. ....... The
fairy stories run strong through our history. Old habits and ideas are
apparently incredibly hard to break for our stubborn Scots.
The old cemeteries are disappearing in underbrush. It is comforting to me to
know that there are still places of uninterupted peace. I can imagine that
the bagpiper standing atop those windy hills will always be there for those
who lend an ear to the breeze and care to listen.
The "forest" refers to a district of Scotland called Ettrick Forest. The
"flowers" were the Borderers, men from the Border area of Scotland, who were
killed at the Battle of Flodden in 1513. To Scots today, "Flowers of the
Forest" refers to those who have passed on to a better place. Listed below
are our beloved MacDuff flowers - gone from us here, but forever blooming in
our hearts.
Q. What's the difference between a bagpipe and an onion?
Q. What's the definition of a gentleman?
Did you hear about the gentleman who parked his car with the windows open,
forgetting that he left his bagpipes in the back seat? He rushed back as
soon as he realized it, but it was too late! Someone had already put another
set of bagpipes in the car!
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